Pedro Subijana (Epain)
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| Pedro Subijana is one of "The World's Most Influential, creative and important Chefs" |
Text: Rodrigo García Fernández /©ICEX
Translation: Jenny McDonald /©ICEX
Photographer: Spanish chef Pedro Subijana
The
first impression of Pedro Subijana (born in San Sebastián in 1948) is a
big moustache and a smile. His reputation as one of the leading Basque
chefs has been gained over 30 years of hard work, leading in 2006 to his
third Michelin star.
Subijana
works alongside Ada, his wife and the mother of their three children,
in a restaurant in a spectacular location. Akelare (a Basque word that
has entered the Spanish language, meaning a coven of witches) is on the
slopes of the Monte Igueldo, one of the symbols of the beautiful city of
San Sebastián, and looks over the Concha bay, the island of Santa Clara
and the restless Bay of Biscay.
Pedro
started out in Akelare in 1975 but only after extensive travel and
training. His decision to become a professional chef was a last-minute
one, taken just before he was about to start studying medicine at a
prestige university in Pamplona (Navarre). First, he entered the Madrid
Hospitality School, then returned to the Basque Country when he learnt
that a new school was to be opened in Zarauz, that of Luis Irízar, whom
he always names as his maestro.
After
marrying, he started working at a typical asador grill restaurant in
Tolosa, then moved to the nearby town of Hernani to take charge of the
restaurant at a club for the Basque sport of pelota. Hearing how well
things were going, Luis Irízar informed his former student about a new
French-style restaurant to be opened in Madrid, the famous Zalacain.
Subijana worked for one year at what at the time was considered Madrid's
top restaurant. In 1974 he was taken on as chef at a restaurant in
Estella (Navarra), bringing him close to where he really wanted to be,
his home town of San Sebastián. But he did not have to wait long. Twelve
months later, he was chef de cuisine at the restaurant perched above
the city's spectacular bay.
New Basque Cuisine
Once
he was in charge at Akelare, he soon found himself involved in one of
the most interesting phenomena in Spanish gastronomy, New Basque
Cuisine, which started out in the late 1970s. The seed was sown by a
group of local chefs, under the influence of Paul Bocuse and French
Nouvelle Cuisine, who decided to give a new look to traditional Basque
cooking. In the words of Subijana, "New Basque Cuisine aimed to focus on
seasonal products but adding a large dose of imagination and pushing
back the frontiers".
This
movement, under the leadership, amongst others, of Juanmari Arzak ,
planted the seed of what was to become the avant-garde of Spanish
gastronomy. Pedro Subijana has never looked back. That was when learning
new things became a passion. Recipes were updated but always based on
respect for Basque tradition and the best possible local produce. Above
all, he says, "Throughout the meal, we take care of every last detail to
ensure that the occasion is a memorable one".
His
continued devotion to his profession leads him to change the menus at
his restaurant every two months, to collaborate with several cooking
schools, including the one where he himself studied, to participate in
TV programs and to publish books on both home cooking and high-level
gastronomy.
